DAY 20-Made it to Cabo! Dirt Track Baby!!!

What a great day! Had a restful nights sleep, great morning coffee and an eggs burrito.Morning sun on the bike.
Packed up, got some email addresses from my fellow La Ventana free Arroyo campers and hit the road. My plan for the day was to camp before Cabo along the East Cape. Plans change as you will soon read. Well, the boys in the camp told me that my bike was not worthy of the dirt road along the coast. Boy were they wrong. But first I had some great twisty roads for about fifty miles up and over a small mountian. Lots of people out on their bikes and cars. I guess thats what they do on Sunday. I passed about 150 motorcyclist in a few different areas. They were stopped for lunch or coming by me going the other direction. Lots of waving and thumbs-up. Went through some smallish towns and over lots of Topes. What is a topes? ha ha Anyways, I stopped in a small market to get some more water and some food. Then I was off down the coastal dirt track. Right off I thought about turning around. The things the guys from the camp said were ringing in my ears. But I pressed on. I rode to Cabo Pulmo, a great dive spot, but it was too windy to camp. Cabo Pulmo
So I pressed on further south. Not many travellers on this stretch of road. Came up on a sandy track that led to a beach. I said what the heck and went for it. I got down a ways and started thinking about letting some air out of the tires. So I pulled over and dropped them down to 20psi in the back and 15psi in the front. WOW! what a difference! Shoulda done that to begin with. Much better. Now I can really cruise.


Most of the 100 miles I was whooping and laughing aloud. But really had to stay focused. the scenery was awsome, and I stopped many times to gawk and take pictures.

I took a couple of videos while riding,
that was challenging, riding one handed with a 250 dollar phone in the other, trying to hold her steady and keep it on the road. I soon had pavement in my sights and pulled over to air up the tires. I also had cell service so I called my wife. She said that I should check availability at our condo, so I did and booked a studio for two nights, fifty bones/night!!!. Way better than a windy night on a secluded beach on the Sea of Cortez. So into San Jose del Cabo I went.

The resort is pimping and the staff are very helpful. It's right on the beach and has a bunch of pools. Should be pretty fun!

BURRO!!! pretty cute from a distance, even better when not on the road. End of the dirt! What a BLAST!!! Airing up the tires. 42psi Rear/33psi front.

later luke

WOW! DAY 18-La Ventana

The days are running together and I've lost track of the hours of the day. now I live by my hunger, the tides, and if it is geting light or dark. Pretty sweet. I have not been able to post as much as I would have liked to so the next few paragraphs will be a long synapse of what youve missed...

Let's recap... The trip into Baja has been both exciting and motivating. you realize that the "world" we live in of working and buying things and down to even the day to day grind is somewhat erased on a trip like this. Just what people need to put a real smile on their faces. As I have made my way through the Baja I've really fell in love with both the area and the people, gringos and natives alike.
Take the beach I stayed at, playa Santispac, I was recieved by the beach campers and the locals with open arms. People who I haven't known but for a few hours are offering me the use of their kayaks and R.V. bathrooms/showers. and anything else they have. Only having to buy the first drink at the restaurant and the rest are on the house is pretty cool, too.

Well, after I wore that beach out I cruised on to Loreto, just a short ride south. I figured that since it is a farely large city that they would have cell coverage. NOPE. But I did manage to stay in a R.V. camp for 5 bucks, with great facilities. The dog in the yard right next to my tent barked all night, I mean all night. Then even though I was wearing earplugs, the chickens woke me up very early. I guess when the guide book says it is noisy at night they mean it. I met a nice lady, Helen, from Vancouver Is. She is on a motorcycle trip most of us only dream about. Now retired, she is able to ride for a while, stay for a while, back track and do it again. she hopes to do the entire Hiway from alaska to argentina. very cool. I left there after she made me an excellent cup of coffee, and headed out towards La Paz.

It was a great ride and wonderful scenery along the way. Mountians jutting up from the sea and the vegitation is so green from recent rains. Most of you have never driven roads like this. Back home our paved forest service roads are in better shape. You also have numerous obsticles to avoid; cattle, burros, horses, birds, semi-trucks, dust, wind, no shoulder on the roadside what-so-ever, unmarked corners, rebar poking out all over the place along the ditches beside the roads, HUGE pot-holes, and many other things that will keep you on your toes.
Twisty road coming up!
Washed out!

So with all that in my way it didn't stop me from arriving in La Paz. Big city. I felt like I needed more money than I had on me so I stopped at the atm. Met a great local guy there named Rigo. he chatted with me in limited but good english and i was able to listen intently as he told be about his recent trips he had taken to British Columbia and Tucson, Arizona. He invited me to go camping with him at the end of Febuary at a Ranchers meeting. I will not be able to cause I will still be in Cabo. I am sure they will have a grat time. I will ride through where he is going to camp, so i will check it out.

One rigo and I parted ways at the bank I headed through town and up to a pennisula with free camping on the most amazing beaches. Had to ride through deep sand to get to a spot, but didn't dump the bike this time. I used combo of LOTS of throttle and good balance. One of the campers came by later and said he could hear my bike coming through the dunes and saw a 3 meter rooster tail of sand. that is so cool. He was shocked to see my street bike had made it. I said its the indian not the arrow. Complementing myself for my advanced riding skills. LOL! I had a nice dinner of fish ceviche and a Pacifico. All for 60pesos.($4.50) I went to bed soon after it was dark so I could be up early to catch some fish. When I was awakened in the morning before dawn by very loud spashing noises coming frome the sea, turns out to be about a 1000 birds eating breakfast of sardines. I quickly got up and grabbed my pole. Caught a couple of nice size fish. don't know what they were and didn't get a photo, so you'll have to just believe me. Soon after that action was over, I broke camp and throttle my way back out of the dunes toward La Paz. I needed to get a new snorkle mask and some new lures and some food stuffs, pretty easy to find and soon after I was on my way to a new camp, in La Ventana.My camp in La Ventana, Kiteboard Heaven. Although no wind right now:(


Along the way I found this place. Beach of the dead. They are trying to change the name to Beach of Dreams. Ha Ha


Here I have met some great people from all over. They dome for the wind to board and surf. They took me out and showd me a good time, food and entertainment. I had to get up and stun them all with my open mic night skills. They were slighty impressed, I think. That wrapped up last night and went back to camp. I must have bumped my stove geting into the tent cause this morning the fuel was gone! good thing I have a 2 gallon can of gas waiting for me to make stupid mistakes like that one. So after refueling my stove I fried up some eggs and tortillas. There are these little red ants that get into everything. Not good. Bug spray kills them. That is a comfort...

I just got back from a return trip to the Beach of the Dead, where I took the bike on a dirt road. Fun stuff!

Then I went snorkeling for a couple of hours, lots of cool fish, huge schools of medium sized fish. Also Hiked up to a Muslum styled palace. huge lots of money going into the contruction of that place, no workers were there so I poked around. Three elevators in the place, cause its on a hill side next to the sea. I was really bummed when I got there and realized my camera was in my topcase on my bike, a 20minute walk away. so no photos, just use your imagination to see what millions of dollars will buy you in the baja. I honestly have never seen a private home that nice. Mtv Cribs would have fainted.

Well thats most of whats been going on down here. so until next time. later luke




!

What day is it?

Well now I am in Loreto. I have had a great week, lots of riding and relaxing. Stayed at a beach I went to when I was a younger boy. Had a great time. Lost a couple of days in my journal. Was shocke to hear it was Wednesday. So I am on my way further south, can't wait for next Tuesday when I pick my wife up in Cabo. Here are some photos from the last few days.

After leaving el Socorro, got a long way to go.

On my way to bay of LA, Cativina rocks/boulders for mile and miles.

First night at the Bay of LA, ceviche and pico de gallo. I'm livin!

Caught a small baracuda, smoked it and ate it.

My first catch, small bay bass. Put a huge smile on my face.

This is craig from Dana Point, in the O.C. surfs. Spearfishes. Cool guy. Caught the 26lbs fish.

My camp on the beach, 8bucks a night.

Pretty sunrise Wednesday, I'm up early.

Went out for 3 hours on a real nice kayak

DAY 10&11 El Socorro to Bay of Las Angeles- 250miles

I made it to a place called the bay of L.A. yesterday around 2pm. I left the comforts of Mike and Shelly's place to find the sun on the Sea of Cortez. Had a beuatiful ride although windy. found a place to camp for 5bucks and went about settin up camp. there ar some dudes from southern California in a place right behind me, next to the beach. really nice guys, invited me over for ceviche and other fixins. one guy runs a catering thing so is great with food. they are there diving and catchin fish for a couple of weeks. we hung out for a while then off to my camp for some needed sleep.

woke up at daybreak and watched the sunrise over the Islands to the east. had cofee and cleaned my self up. read some of my book and then put my gear for fishing to gether. it was calm, and easy casting when i started but soon the wind picked up. I was able to catch quite a few 2-3lbs spotted bay bass. I kept the bigger ones in a bucket to show the guys when they got back from thier dive. then I hooked up a barracuda. about 4lbs and kinda scary. when they got back they were impressed with the barracuda but not the bass. so i let the bass go. the barracuda was fileted and put in the smoker. they came back with some careba,(grouper). a few around 10lbs and one at 26lbs. and a couple of trigger fish, which are suppposed to taste like lobster with a hint of crab. i can't wait to try it.

I am pretty far from any big cities. this place maybe has a few hundred people. a couple of minimarkets, restaurants and hotels. i found a computer in a back room at the market. 15pesos for a half hour. it takes 5minutes for a page to load so it might get expensive. to slow to upload photos too.

I will stay here on more night and then head out to the southwest to another bay were the Grey whales are. thats gonna be sweet! I totaly got sunburned this morning so im nursing that. every thing else is doing good. oh, my chain is acting up again. kinda noisy so i lubed it up and adjusted it again. i hope it lasts long enought to get me back to the states.

im gonna get some produce for dinner and head back out to camp.15minute ride.

later luke

DAY 10-Rosarito beach to El Socorro

TWow. I am here. Doing it. Left the condo in perfect weather and road thru to Ensanada, had tacos there, great as usual. Then road a while to san quintin. Pulled of the road to check the map. Yep I'm still in mexico. When I took off I laid the bike over in the soft sandy shoulder. By the time I got my helmet off some guys had pulled over to help. Wich saveb me from having to take my gear off. I was up and on the road in no time. What was crazy was the road had a fork in it and my inclination is to go to the right. The guys said that that way was "no bueno". So maybe its was good to have laid the bike down. I was only going to ride another 20 klicks south and find a place to camp. I pulled over at the first place with a good shoulder and was checkin out my bike and waving back at people waving atme as they drove by. I heard somebody ask how far I was going, I. Looked around but saw no one. Thinking it was the wind I then saw am man stooped down doing some work next to a nice looking restaurant. I walked over to him and talked about ridin thrugh baja. His name is Mike and is a great guy. Road the baja last october on a harley v-rod. Somerhing he's wanted o do since he was 18. He and his wife Shelly are trying to get this cute place called romans bistro started. It has greta food, a real espresso and wifi. They invited me in and we hung out all afternoon. Mike had gone out crabbing and had brought home a five gallon bucket of legs and claws, dungeness, I think. Shelly whipped up some luios dressing and made a chorizo pizza for a man named fernando and we all ated a great meal. Fernando has been in this little town all of his life and has fished and dived for 30years. I'm hoping to go out with them tommorow, help pull crab traps and mybe fish a bit for red snapper. We talked until almost ten and they let m stay inside for the night, right net to my bike!!! I'm so stoked, mike got a lot of suggestions for my trip south. I hope dave will ba able to stop here and check this place out. Pics below are from today.

DAY 9- Rosorito Beach

Well today was very nice. The clouds blew over and left a blue sky behind. It got up to almost 70deg. and felt awesome! Got up did some laundry and wiped down the bike. Made some egg and cheese burritos and watched t.v. Went for a long walk on the beach and into town which is a 10min. walk on the road. There was a river blocking me getting to town on the beach so I had to hike the river to the road. the river isn't usually there. It is from the rain yesterday. I think garbage day in the baja is when it rains you just throw it in the nearest ditch and it washes away. It ends up strewn on the beach. No photo, too gross. Anyways I got to town and bought a couple of things and broke some of my large bills, 200 pesos is like 20 bucks but by the way they look at me you would think I was handing them a hundred dollar bill. Nothing really interesting about the town. Looks more run into the ground than it was in 2006 when I was here with my wife. Maybe all the "bad" publicity the U.S. is putting out thru the media about Mexico is influencing people to stay away. Shame on them. This place needs us. I think that if you can handle a place like,say, Lakewood, Wa, you would do well here. Much safer.

After walking the town, I came back to hang the laundry in the sun. Took some time to repack some things. Then went back to town for lunch on foot. The bike didn't want to go, I think it's tired. Found a little open air taco stand and had some pork tacos and a pork quesidilla. Wonderful. six bucks with a diet coke. Then I found a little market and bought some tangerins, salsa, lime and fresh corn chips. I'll make guacomole later. The walk back was interestin because all the beggers had crossed the street and I had to ruin their day once again. The guys selling women was really putting the pressure on. But He was defeated by my blank stares and brisk walking technique.

Once back at the room I decided to try out the fishing pole I brought. So I geared up and headed back down to the beach. it was so nice, a little breeze and warm. It only took me like 8 casts to get my gear caught and break the line. For me, that doing very good. I resorted to sitting in the sun Alite chair. Comfy!
and taking pictures of things that were on the beach.
This dude is having too much fun!

I went back to the room and started to rearrange stuff on the bike, trying to get someheavy items lower or more to the center of the load. Talked to my Wife on the phone, man I miss her. She is the best! She totaly understand that I'm nuts and do things others won't. I am sometimes sorry for that. But then I look around and smile. Life is great. It would be pretty lame without adventure. Just ask Indiana Jones.

Just pulled into resort, last night, Tuesday at 6pm.

DAY 8(ocho)-Carlsbad, CA to Rosirito, Baja Mex

As plans go and then go bye-bye. Mine came and went pretty quick. Originally I was going to stay one more night in California then head into Mexico on the 10th. I was going to try to stay at a hot springs in the Guadalupe canyons between Mexicali and Tecate(beer). Well, my day went as follows:

Woke up and broke camp at around 5:30am, made my awesome breakfast I had prepped the night before; eggs, jalapeno bacon, potatoes, onions, red bell pepper. It was delicious! It got light out at 7 and i hit the road to check out some areas around San Diego and prep for Mexico. This camp cost me 35 bucks. Not happy about that.


I was close to where they held the 2008 U.S. Open(golf) at Torrey Pines.
It is a public course and I stopped and snapped some pics and picked up some ball markers and repair tools. Lots of people there to play. and quite a few just stopped by to practice on the putting green. I assume before they have to go to their high paying jobs that allows them to live within driving distance to such a cool/expensive place.

Next it was on to the library in La Jolla, they open at 9:30 so I had 45min to kill browsing my phone. here is a pic of my muffler.
I was there to buy and print out a copy of my Mexican liability insurance. I will say this, and believe me I would have shot some video of it but couldn't cause its a public library. there was a guy there who was just plain nuts. there were about 20 terminals in a big room with windows. This guy picks a computer in the middle section of the room. I was happy to be against the windows right by the door so if things got out of hand i could bolt without knocking anyone down. So this guy, very tall wearing a heavily modified t-shirt, cut-off so it comes to the top of his slightly paunchy belly, no sleeves or neck, they had been removed as well. Jogging shorts, not the kind I wear but the kind marathoners wear. Look it up on google if your unsure what I'm talking about. That was it, no socks or shoes; And man the guy was loud. He personally came up to the 20 other people in the room and asked how there day was going, but never waited for a response before he was asking the next person. All from his chair. Then he got up about four times went out the door by me, and would jump up and down 10 times(he counted aloud) and then come back in and sit down. I was only there for 27minutes and I was totally impressed by this guys crowd presence. I finished up said good-bye to him(which was mysteriously ignored) and left.

Up till now I have neglected to get a Spanish to English phrase book, so I punched borders into my droid and off I went. nothing exciting there. Just your run of the mill huge book store where your not able to find anything unless you ask. You are then told to turn around, cause its right there behind you(mumbles "Dumby") Its amazing how someone can make you feel so dumb.

Next I needed to get some food, so off to Food-4-Less I go. Pretty cheap stuff so that was nice, got some fruit and avocados, and other junk. bought 3litres of water.
A box of 25 One gallon zip lock bags. I really only needed four. So I gave a family the rest.

As was mentioned early my plan was to find a camp spot, so I did but check-in wasn't until 2pm. It was noon so I had some time to kill, so off to the border I go. I have to get a tourist permit good for 180 days in Mexico. that was easy. as I was there I remember that I needed a pass for my bike too. But didn't have copies of the stuff they needed so I left and planned on getting that done in the a.m.. So I tried to sweet talk the border guard into letting the gate for the return spot open up which would have put me right at the border going back into Cali. He let some dude thru with a refrigerator they didn't want in Mexico, but wouldn't let me through. So I took of into Tijuana for a bit. That was crazy. So as soon as I saw an I-5/San Diego sign I went for it. Waited in the lines, it was really muggy. I so badly wanted a warm yogurt the vendors were selling but couldn't think of a way to eat it safely. I made it through w/no problems, and went to office depot. My GPS on the phone keeps putting me at the back of the buildings, so i gotta keep my eyes open for what I'm looking for. The picture for office depot was for the nail salon on the back side. Not needing to have my nails done I swung around to the O.D..
Inside they thought I was crazy for only needing to make 22cents worth of copies. kept asking,"Are you sure, sir?" "Sure", I said. Left there and went to check out the camp sites. Which were nice up on a hill in a county park, in Bonita. It was pretty. Of course again there were no rangers or self-pay, so I picked out a site and went and looked around. First place I looked was West. Not looking good. Huge thunder clouds building up offshore. One check on the Droid, weather.com and a quick call to World Mark Vacation Planning and I was outta there and headed back to the border. For 36 dollars I will stay in a 2 bedroom unit with a king bed and view of the storm/ocean, especially when its gonna pour.

I got to the border and went into the declaration line. They have parking and security so leaving my bike seemed O.K.. Went to one booth, they told me to go somewhere else, then a man told me where and how to walk there. Only a block away! I was excited, almost in. I wanted to get this done here cause elsewhere the price doubles. one block to a Mexican I a really long way to walk, so I was jogging. thoughts of my bike and being a pedestrian in Tijuana were really making me pick up speed. The nice man had told me it was just behind immigration and by the McDonald's. Yeah right. I went straight there but not on his directions. just had a feeling, you know? Any ways when I got to the window and explained in plain Inglis what I needed I was sent to the next window to a guy who sorta spoke English. After multiple puzzled looks He explained that I would only need the pass if I was going to take the Ferry from La Paz(Baja) to Mazatlan(main land). Well, I was going to to do that. But now the plans have changed and that is no longer part of my trip. I had just forgot to erase it out of my little yellow book on the things to do before Mexico section. Doh! Now, sprinting back to my bike parked in the most secure part of Mexico, I can't keep the thoughts of how foolish I am from racing though my mind. But my worry was not needed, for my bike and gear were fine.

So I jumped on the bike and headed for the way out. I was stopped and asked by a nice lady who told me to get off my bike and push a button below a large Green and Red traffic light. I asked why should I? She said if I(me) push it and its green I get to go, but if it's red, she get to rifle through my stuff. Great. I laughed silently betting myself 50pesos it would be Red. Put my finger on it and pushed. Yep, RED and a Super loud buzzing noise! Everyone of the 5+guards there were laughing at me. So I pulled my bike back and started to take stuff apart for her viewing pleasure. Now she looked at things I hadn't seen since OLY. A few items I knew I packed but couldn't remember where. Then she was done I packed it back up as she asked about my home and my family. Nice lady just doing her much needed job of keeping the craziness out of Mexico.

I was really excited now and I love driving in Mexico. Really gets the blood pumping! *I just remembered that my Mexican Liability Insurance doesn't start till Wednesday morning at six am. Oh well, be care full I guess. I followed what there were of signs and of course, ended up at a dead-end. Though, it won't be someday, for they are building a huge overpass at the end of the road, but I will have to come back in 20years when it's done to use it. So I went back the way I came, no GPS down here. Just my gut. Well, I came upon a HUGE blinking sign pointing the way to Ensanadas with a HUGE arrow. Funny I didn't see that from the other way. I went a ways past and flipped a U-turn just to see if I had missed it. Yep no sign. Apparently they only want people who can figure out how to get on hwy MEX 1-D to travel in Mexico.

I don't mind riding in the rain. I don't even mind wind. I even don't mind traffic. but spill over the road the slimiest, nasty, slippery mud you can find and throw in wind, rain and traffic and I'm not that comfy. I hope that will forever be the last time I was that freaked out. My bike felt and rode like it was on ice. Both tires would lock up slowing for stops, in corners the front would start to drift, and the wind just pushed me where ever. I left the border at four and 18kilometers later at 5:40 I was on the phone at the hotel firming up my reservation. those were the scariest miles I've ridden. When you are scared, like I was, I find it just makes you go faster and faster.

The resort is a nice place. Deserted though. I think I'm the only one here... Is Mexico open for business? I hope so. I got everything out and it's in the room drying. made some coffee and had a snack. Prob gonna get a cab to town and get something to eat/drink.

Everything drying out in the room.
The weather is going to be back to normal tomorrow p.m.(70deg) so I will probably head south. As my phone cost an arm and a leg down here to stream data I will be relying on wi-fi and computers. Probably no pics for a while either. Hope all is well for every one reading.

Peace and Grease
Luke